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12/31/16

Cycling around Taiwan - 台灣環島 [Series: Incomplete blogs]

At about eight in the morning I left Taipei with a small backpack on my bike. Thirty minutes later, still in Taipei, I bought a helmet and a raincoat. That's all I needed for the trip. Then I cycled all the way out of the city.

I felt the freedom to move at my own pace and stop at my own will, the lightness of being in motion and the dopamine kicks of physical exertion. It was a very liberating feeling living an unrestrained yet minimalist way of life. I set out with keen senses and constant excitement.

That's how actually day one began. It however ended with anti-climactic feelings of physical exhaustion and slight disappointment with a lack of scenery as I was greeted with a string of dull townships and mundane human settlements. I rested in Miaoli (苗栗), a town located in the foothills of western Taiwan.

Sanyi (三義) is one of those towns where you can spend a lot of time doing nothing on a sunny day. The charm in its simplicity had a soothing effect. The old railway station shone proudly in the sunshine. There was just a lady with her kid waiting inside. This was in sharp contrast to the unending row of concrete erections that put me down on day one.

The best part of day one was a small detour along the western coast near Hsinzhu (新竹). I spotted windmills swirling elegantly by the sea against the backdrop of a setting sun. I watched the crisply defined silhouettes of their blades slashing the cerise rays of the sun. Their long shadows spanned the entire width of the highway.

A long, uninterrupted downslope about 5 km in length gets you to Houli (后里) from Sanyi. Floating effortlessly for such a long distance became one of the highlights of this trip.

I slept over in Taichong (台中) and Tainan (台南) - two lovely cities where I found some kind people to host me. The next day I biked to Xinzuoying (新左營) and took a train ride to Taitung (台東). A shitty weather greeted me and after a futile attempt to sleep in an open shelter, I resumed biking again.

The east coast of Taiwan is breath-taking. Every few kilometers there's a sheltered spot which offers stunning views of the ocean and the mountains. 

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